Spring is finally ready to pounce into view in upstate New York. Due, in part, to a colder-than-normal February, I've noticed the first spring-bloomers have held off a few weeks. Now, my friend, Beth, in Texas, has reported that the daffodils have already bloomed out by her, but up in the nation's northernmost reaches, the narcissus and hyacinths have been shy. They don't want to expose themselves to unnecessary harshness.
I understand their reluctance. And I'm able to remain patient because there are dozens of things to do to prep my garden for a glorious growing season. But the three most important are these:
1. Prune trees
2. Shape hedges
3. Get rid of moss (unless you are cultivating it)
As the saying goes, "There is a time for every purpose under heaven," and the time to cut back mature trees is now. From the final weeks of winter into the first few weeks of spring (roughly mid-March-mid April), prune deciduous trees before they begin to leaf out. Some trees, such as maples, "bleed" heavily when pruned in late winter or early spring. However, the heavy bleeding doesn't harm the trees. The trees won't bleed to death and the flow of sap will gradually slow and stop.
Be careful when pruning oak trees. Cutting them after mid-April is dangerous because it can spread what is known as "oak wilt." Pruning oaks from mid-April to mid-July may attract sap beetles carrying the oak wilt fungus to the pruning cuts, and transmit the disease to healthy trees. In my opinion, the best time to prune oaks is late February through the first week or two of April (in the northeast. Don't prune after April 1st in the south). If possible, avoid pruning deciduous trees in the spring as they are leafing out. At this time, the tree's energy reserves are low and the bark "slips" or tears easily. Another poor time to prune is during leaf drop in the fall. An excellent time to prune coniferous trees, like spruce and fir is late winter to early spring, when they are still dormant. Spruce and fir possess side or lateral buds. The pruning cut should be just above a side bud or branch. Hold off on cutting back pines, which are best pruned in early June to early July. At this time, the new growth is in the "candle" stage. Pinching or snapping off one-half to two-thirds of the pine's candle reduces the annual growth. And unwanted lower branches on all evergreen trees can be removed in late winter. Last, but not least: fruit trees. The best time to prune them is late February to the first week or two of April. Fruit trees pruned in fall or early winter may be susceptible to winter injury. And, obviously, cutting off limbs in spring will reduce the amount of fruit yield.
The first few weeks in spring is an excellent time to shape hedges. Not only is it better for the shrubs, but it enables gardeners to "get in there" without trampling over tender perennials just emerging from the soil. Mature or neglected spring-flowering shrubs often require extensive pruning to rejuvenate or renew the plants. The best time to rejuvenate large, overgrown shrubs is late winter or early spring (mid-February to mid-April) before the plants begin to leaf out. While heavy pruning in late winter or early spring will reduce or eliminate the flower display for a season or so, the restoration of a healthy, vigorous shrub is more important.
If spring-flowering hedges (like forsythia) need only light pruning, cautiously cut them back immediately after blooming. This allows the gardener to enjoy the spring flower display, and gives the shrubs adequate time to initiate new flower buds for next season. Summer-flowering shrubs, such as potentilla and Japanese spirea and hydrangea (the white paniculata) bloom on the current year's growth. Prune these shrubs in late winter or early spring. Summer-flowering shrubs pruned from mid-February to early April will still bloom in summer. Many deciduous shrubs don't produce attractive flowers. These shrubs may possess attractive bark, fruit, or fall leaf color. Prune these shrubs in late winter or early spring also. Never prune deciduous shrubs in late summer. Pruning shrubs in August or early September may encourage a late flush of growth. This new growth may not harden sufficiently before the arrival of cold weather and be susceptible to winter injury. Evergreen hedges, such as juniper and yew, need snipping in late March through mid-April, before new growth begins. Light pruning may also be done in late June or early July. Avoid pruning evergreen shrubs in the fall. Fall pruned evergreens are more susceptible to winter injury. As for unwanted greenery, like that pesky moss which perennially pops up amid your grass blades, April is the month to pull out all the stops. These nonparasitic, primitive green plants reproduce by means of wind-blown spores. And April is the month that the spores kick into high gear. Mosses typically form a thick, green mat on the soil surface. They produce their own food and do not kill grass plants, but rather fill in the spaces in the lawn where grass is not growing.
If mosses are present in your lawn, it indicates that conditions are not favorable for the growth of a healthy stand of grass but are favorable for the growth of mosses. The conditions that favor mosses over grass include: excessive shade, acidic soil, poor drainage, compacted soil, excessive irrigation, low soil fertility or some combination of these conditions.
The most common cause of moss-growth is lack of light, but it won't be a problem going forward if diligent gardeners have trimmed back trees and hedges--steps one and two of my must-do plan. Now, all you need to do is step into your newly renovated, sunlight-filled yard with a box of baking soda. Sprinkle existing moss just before a rainstorm because water activates the baking soda, prompting its moss-kicking properties to shift into high gear. Wait until moss turns yellowish, then simply rake it out, and toss new seed onto sparse spaces just after Mother's Day to ensure tender seedlings grow thick and strong.
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