Thursday, June 4, 2015

The reel deal: how to sharpen your push mower blades






I love my old-fashioned reel lawnmower.  You know what I'm talking about.  If you're over say, 40, there's a chance you at least saw one in your grandparents' garage.  I searched high and low for five years to find one.  Then one day I saw it: a little blast from the past, packaged up under the Scotts logo at my local hardware store.  No engine, just an artfully arranged cylinder of blades, two large-ish tires, and a simple handle--broad enough to push.  Hence its other name: the push mower.  Memories of watching my brother push the rhythmic grass leveler around my grandpa's yard filled my mind (sadly, I was not allowed to use the mower.  Not sure if my grandparents thought I'd hurt myself, or it just wasn't a ladylike activity).

The push mower is the perfect solution for those of us who have small lawns and/or want to cut our grass in the most eco-friendly way possible.  After all, the benefits are indisputable: no need to buy gas or oil; no air-polluting fumes spewing around our gardens; and a full-body workout while we guide our (wo)man-powered machines around our yards.  Yup, yours truly uses mine every week without harming myself or feeling less feminine.  Added benefits: the gentle swish-swish hum of the blades as they slice through the landscape, perfectly complementing (as opposed to drowning out) the birdsong from the nearby trees.  Far preferable to the unrelenting decibels of their motorized counterparts.  And then there's the smell: freshly cut grass.  Such a popular scent that Yankee Candle even offers this variety in wax.  Incidentally, they don't have a candle called "hydrocarbon exhaust," which is the stench coming off the gas-engine mowers.

Yes, I love my reel mower.  I DO NOT love keeping the blades sharpened.  Doing so, in fact, has proven quite a challenge to me over the past few years.  Yet I have found a few tricks for keeping my push-mower blades sharpened.  Here's what I've discovered:

*Don't bring your push mower to a lawnmower repair and sales shop unless the blades can be individually removed.  Staff cannot fit the pre-formed cylinders on the machines to sharpen the blades, so they have to sharpen them by hand, which is costly--if they'll even do it.  The one near me won't.

*Don't go in for gimmicks.  I purchased a Lawn Mower Blade Sharpener, which looked like a little pumice stone on a stick.  It seemed handy enough, since it hooked right into a rotary tool.  Problem was, it was so small that it only sharpened one mower blade before disintegrating. At four bucks each, it didn't satisfy claims to "save time and money," since I needed to buy six of them (one for each blade--$24!) and waste a lot of time changing out the electric drill.

*Do spend the time and attention needed to get the job done right.  With an "old school" implement like a reel mower, the old way of sharpening can be best.  Try metal finishing sandpaper or a coarse sharpening stone. Sharpening individual blades with a stone or sheet of sandpaper is pretty hard work, but there are sandpaper sharpeners that get the job done quicker.  You attach the sharpener to the back blade and brush against the cutting blades as they rotate past. The more you push, the sharper it gets.  This method can be a time-gobbler, depending on your arm strength and patience.  It can be as frustrating as--need I say it--watching the grass grow.

*Do go with the tried and true: a backlapping sharpening kit. This type of kit includes sharpening compound and a handle. You start by attaching the handle to the driving gear on the mower, then, apply sharpening compound to all of the blades of the mower using a paint brush. Next, start cranking the mower backwards so that the blades scrape each other down to a smooth edge.  The problem with this method is that it takes some serious arm strength, which I don't have.  This method is best for someone like my pal Karen, who has a freakishly strong upper-body area.

*Do look for new options.  In the same vein as "when all else fails, read the instructions," I've decided to look up sharpening options through the maker of my push mower: Scotts.  Low and behold, they offer a reel mower sharpening kit.  Who knew it could be that easy?  Clearly not I.  What can I say?  I'm not always the "sharpest blade in the drawer."   In any case,  I've just ordered mine through Amazon, and I'll keep you posted on the results.

One thing gardening pros recommend after sharpening your push mower: coating blades with a light application of oil.  This can prevent rust and other corrosion from setting in. Low acidity vegetable oil is a good choice because it won't leave any harmful residue on your lawn, and will protect the blades from moisture.  This handy trick will help you cut costs--as well as grass--for years to come.

Thursday, May 28, 2015

Pretty pairing





When I gaze at the vast array of flora in spring and summer gardens, my brain starts spinning, making mental notes about various plant sizes, shapes, growing habits, and colors.  I can't help calculating, assessing, touching and smelling the flowers and foliage.  My mind darts like that little ball in a pinball machine, touching off ideas, lighting up with infinite plant-pairing possibilities.

This most pleasurable of games really gears up in mid-May, when so many plants come into their own.  My favorite pairing of the past three years or so, has been the Tiarella cordifolia (foamflower) and fern combination (left).  The Tiarella has lovely ivy-esque foliage and frothy white blossoms that seems to float above the intricately patterned ferns for an effect that's tremendously pleasing.  Since these plants thrive in shade, it's a great choice for under trees. 

As I wander garden paths, perusing this season's offerings, I've come across a lot of dynamic duos.  Here's what I've discovered:

The A's have got it going on:  Amsonia hubrichtii (Blue Star--in front) and Azalea are a winning combination.  I especially like the gentle baby-blue blossoms paired with a bright punch of color, like this magenta azalea, shown below:




A pop of color, like this crimson Papaver--the poppy--always catches the eye, but framing it in a field of wild geraniums (Geranium maculatum) with deep purple blooms really adds the wow factor:





Gorgeous groundcover groupings are as varied as imagination allows.  Here's a marriage made in horticultural heaven (in my humble opinion):  Lily-of-the-Valley (Convallaria majalis) and pachysandra terminalis.  Looking down, it appears that the pachysandra is actually budding from the convallaria!  The scent and dainty appearance of the bell-shaped flowers only adds to the overall charm:



Hope this inspires readers to mix and match in their own gardens.  Here's an idea: for instant gratification, add bright, colorful annuals into your perennial beds.  The pairing possibilities are endless!

Friday, May 22, 2015

To bee or not to bee





I know I've written a lot about the honeybee population, but it's the only way I know of to shine a spotlight on the problem--they're disappearing!  I don't want to be an alarmist, but I must admit, my heart races at the latest "diminishing honeybee" reports: bee hives down 42% in the past decade.  And new research indicates that bees are dying at an alarming rate in warm-weather months.  We all know that the winter stresses the bees out (let's face it, it's tough on all of us, so we can relate, right?), but their demise during the spring and summer is distressing.  It's the time that these industrious little creatures should be at the top of their game, thriving, and making honey.

As we all know, this is not a new problem.  It's been about a decade or so since entomologists started really focusing on the issue.  I recall a lively debate in class, with a professor detailing the emerging bee decline back in 2008.  In 2009, reports seemed to suggest that the problem was an anomaly, and the bee population was making a healthy resurgence.  But just as we were taking a collective sigh of relief, the trend dipped downward once again...and stayed that way.

Why should we care?  The answer is obvious: Do we like to eat?  If so, we have to ensure the bees have a place in this world.  According to a CBS News report, which aired this past Sunday, May 17th, one in three bites of food we place in our mouths is pollinated by honeybees.  We've reached a critical point in this issue, and we can't just wait for others to take action.  Our government is launching a 15-million-dollar study into the causes, but I sure as heck don't want to wait for bureaucrats to determine what's best for me.  I plan to learn all I can about these dying bees--and take action.

As anyone following this blog knows, my research has highlighted a number of potential culprits in bee decline:  parasites (see my blog post from June 9th, 2014), human takeover of bee habitats, and pesticide use.  We may or may not be able to prevent parasites, but we certainly can do our part not to spread infected bees around, and to make our homes welcoming to these tiny winged warriors.  Do I even need to harp on the reasons we shouldn't be using pesticides?  As my many posts from the past have pointed out, pesticides KILL.  And their continued use, in my humble opinion, will kill us all eventually. 

As for the parasites, main culprits seem to be Varroa mites (see my post from  July 15th, 2014).  Ironically, the use of bee skeps, those charming roped domes used by Colonial farmers,  may be causing diseased bees to spread around our neighborhoods.  I just discovered that bee skeps are illegal!  First of all, the skeps--the bees' homes--have to be destroyed in order to extract the honey.  Take away a bee home and food source and what do you get?  Dead bees.  Additionally, all beekeepers in the U.S. are required to keep honeybees in a hive with frames that can be removed for inspection.  The law, set up by the USDA, helps control mite infestation.  It's also more humane because you can take a portion of the honey without destroying the bees.

That's not to say we can't do our part to encourage bees into our yards.  As my previous posts, mentioned above, detail, we can incorporate bees into our daily lives by setting up hospitable places in our yards (they especially like hollowed-out trees, so think twice about chopping down that dead hickory on the edge of your property).  And for goodness sake, don't swat at a curious bee flitting around you!  It's not evil incarnate, ready to do battle with the Big Bad Human.  It may be attracted to the red shirt or yellow dress you're wearing, thinking there may just be a juicy flower attached to you.  It may confuse the soda can emanating sugar vibes with the sweet nectar it seeks.  Harsh movements only confuse and frighten bees.  Sit still, let it figure you out, and then it will be on its way.  Remember, stinging is a bee's defense mechanism.  If it doesn't have to defend itself, it won't attack you.

As for pesticide use, let's all make a vow to cut it out.  For good.  I understand the reasoning behind the need to buy that bottle of bug-killer.  We spend untold hours trying to coax plants from the soil, and to see our efforts destroyed by the little buggers is dismaying.  How bad could one little bottle be?  But if every person across the nation thought this way, there'd be (and are!) millions of bottles out there, spewing toxins into the air, and coating the surface of our planet in life-killing solutions.   It's senseless when there are many effective all-natural ways to rid yourselves of mites and bugs that feast on our garden greens.  And they're easier than ever to get  (see my beneficial bug post from April 28th, 2014).  In fact, I'm planning on placing my ladybug and nematode order with Amazon today.  Let's encourage critters who feed on foliage-foragers into our green spaces, and the problem will be solved for good!

An evolving attitude about bee decline seems to involve bee practices themselves.  The growing sentiment is that many beekeepers are becoming greedy.  Just like that slave-driving boss who overworks and underpays employees, many beekeepers appear to be driving the honey-making business into the ground.  A number of environmentalists are now focusing on this aspect of colony collapse in the bee world.  Modern apiculture has turned hives into big business, treating them like chemical factories--with pest strips hanging inside hives, and doses of tetracycline showered over them to keep mites away.  Worker bees seem to have become weary and despondent over these developments.  Like anyone who is taken advantage of, they reach a breaking point--a time when it's easier to go elsewhere.  Sadly, when the honeybees take off, they leave their unborn young abandoned.

The good news, according to master beekeeper Ross Conrad, author of the wildly popular Natural Beekeeping: Organic Approaches to Modern Apiculture (Chelsea Green Publishing), when we start treating the bees sweetly, they'll return the favor--and stay with us.  "Success comes from treating bees organically, by emulating nature," says Conrad.

A new method of beekeeping creating a buzz: Flow Hive, created by a family from Australia, with a hive design that keeps the bees undisturbed as they go about their business.  Extracting the honey is as easy as turning on a faucet, which takes the work out of harvesting.  The revolutionary idea took off on the crowdsourcing site, Indiegogo in Marchraising $5.6 million Co-inventor Cedar Anderson warns that owners still need to know what they're doing, and inspections are mandatory for ensuring that the bees in their hives are healthy.  Anyone interested in starting a hive should link up with local beekeeping groups to learn how to properly care for bees.

Thursday, May 14, 2015

Hop to it: attracting frogs to your pond






It's been a weird May in upstate New York.  I don't mean this in a negative way...or a positive one, either.  It's weird in a...well, a weird way.  The winter was a brutally cold one, followed by a much-warmer-than-expected Spring.  In fact, according to New York City's Channel 7 meteorologist Lee Goldberg (my favorite weather reporter), temperatures topped the 80-degree mark eight out of the fourteen days we've had so far.  Highly unusual.  Stranger still, are the unpredictable dips in mercury every now and again.  For instance, last night, temps took a nose dive, not halting the freefall until hitting the 36-degree mark. 

Could this be the reason that I have no frogs in my pond yet this season?  If memory serves (incidentally, I'm not guaranteeing that it does, mind you), I can usually count on a croak or two around the 'ole watering hole by mid-May.  I know for a fact that the tree frogs are finicky about temperature, because TWO nights ago they struck up a surprise concert in the canopy of tree limbs overhanging the pond.  Of course it was 63-degrees then.  Transpose the numbers, and the frog-frolicking abruptly ended.  And even though today was lovely--in the mid-sixties--the tree-peepers are making themselves scarce.

And I've not seen a hint of terrestrial frogs or their equally shy cousins, the toads.  Warm temps don't seem to tempt them pond-side.  It's almost as if they know that the milder-than-normal afternoons are a ruse to expose their vulnerabilities.  But, whether they're clever or cautious, I don't know.  My research has turned up nothing on the subject. 

Since we can't control the weather, it's best to address the things we CAN do to get the critters into our yards:

1.  Curve appeal:  Never dig a pond that has straight edges, because it's less attractive to the very amphibians you're trying to attract. Round and kidney-shaped ponds provide extra hiding places and areas for other organisms (like patches of floating algae, AKA frog candy) necessary for the pond environment to flourish. You'll also want to make sure at least one side of your pond slopes so that it's easily accessible.  Frogs need ready access to terra firma and the water world, and they have a hard time climbing straight up a wall from deeper water.

2.  Create a stage:  Like all living things, frogs place their wants and needs on center stage.  Help them out by creating a place where they get to play the starring roles.  Try adding some rocks to the water so that they can do some climbing if they like. Plants, such as water lilies, ferns, hostas, and cattails, make great additions to your pond's edges, because they'll provide shade, add beauty, and naturally filter the water. You may even want to turn some pots on their side, and bury them partially around the edges so the frogs can hide or seek shade when it gets too hot.

3.  Be patient:  Stick with the "If you build it, they will come" philosophy, and never add frogs to your pond. If you take a frog from its natural habitat or a pet store and add it to your pond, you can create several problems. The frog may not be prepared to handle the environment, which can lead to death. Or, the environment may not be ready to handle the frog, and if they multiply, they can cause disease that can affect the area's ecosystem. If you are having trouble attracting frogs, contact your state's wildlife division and ask for information on the types of frogs that are native to your area. Find out what they like to eat or what type of conditions they prefer.  Proper research should result in "hoppy" critters, who are looking to make your home theirs too.

Thursday, May 7, 2015

You must remember this: KISS




My high school English teacher used to reference this acrostic saying when teaching solid writing behavior: KISS, which stands for "Keep It Simple, Silly."  It's a phrase I always try to adhere to when writing, but of course it can apply to so many areas of life.  In the gardening world, KISS is a vital component of the best looking outdoor spaces.

It seems like an easy concept, but I have a hard time "keeping it simple" when I hit up the local nurseries.  Let's face it, there's SO MUCH to choose from: flowering plants and bulbs of all shapes and sizes, multitudes of shrubs and trees up for grabs, groundcovers, grasses, endless hard-scaping options...how's a landscaping addict such as myself to choose?  I want to try everything!

Last fall, I bought 15 antique concrete urns and planters.  The thought of filling them all with lush plantings kept me going through the cold winter months.  As the winter holidays gave way to raging snowstorms, I perused my garden catalogues, trying to decide which colorful, exotic plantings would look best.  I changed my mind a dozen times, then threw up my hands in despair.  How was I going to select the right things when there was so much on offer?

As Spring approached, I purposely put all thoughts of urn-filling out of my head, and focused on the hard work of getting the garden in shape.  Anyone who has been following this blog has accompanied me as I dredged up old leaves, trimmed back hedges, eradicated moss and cut down trees.  Now, for the fun stuff.  It's nearly Mother's Day, the magical moment for planting all those tender annuals.  I looked at my empty concrete planters, my heart racing with possibilities.

But a bed of tulips and daffodils distracted me. I looked around.  The magnolia and forsythia was just giving way to purple red bud blooms, white bottlebrush flowers on the fothergilla, and the crimson buds of the Japanese maple.  Soon, the bright red poppies would be in bloom, then the iris, the peonies, and daylilies.  I'd recently planted three new rose bushes as well.  Glancing all around, I realized that there was so much "going on" in my garden.  Every corner my gaze rested on was either filled with blooming color or the promise of it.  All at once, I knew exactly what I needed to put in my prized, ornate planters:  greenery!!!

So I headed to the local nursery, and bypassed all the exotic beauties which tried to beckon me to their aisles with their breath-taking colors.  With a wistful sigh, I purchased six humble arborvitae bushes, ten modest asparagus ferns, and three mini spruce trees.  It wasn't until I actually placed them in their respective planters that I sighed with relief and pleasure.  That song from the movie, Casablanca, played in my mind:

You must remember this, a KISS is just a kiss, a sigh is just a sigh
The fundamental things apply, as time goes by...

Simple, beautiful design never goes out of style.

Thursday, April 30, 2015

Make that gopher go away!




This time of year is nearly every northern gardener' favorite.  With the magnolia and red bud trees just starting to bloom, our eyes glance greedily over the developing landscape as our minds fill to overflowing with all the possibilities.  Further fueling our imaginations: swirling hedges of sunny forsythia, tulips and daffs of all hues dotting the hills and valleys, and the deeply satisfying scent of pachysandra blooms.

I guess it's only natural for all God's creatures to enjoy the feast of flora spreading out before us like the unrolling of a magical carpet.  But our all-too-human dreams come to an abrupt halt when we encounter large holes in the ground, usually right near all the chomped-upon hosta buds.  The teeth-gnashing reality: gophers gone wild in our coveted garden spaces!!!

Now, before you reach for the BB gun or trap, try the non-confrontational approach I did to discourage the chubby critters.  It takes a little dedication, but I was able to banish the big, fat gopher taking up residence in my yard within a three-week period.  Here's my story:

It started with a phone call from my across-the-street neighbor, who informed me I had a huge groundhog hanging out on my front porch--sitting on the steps, relaxing on the wicker settee, and generally amusing the neighborhood with his antics. 

I was less than entertained.  Although there wasn't much out for him to eat in late March, I knew that if I didn't rid him of the property post-haste I'd have little more than daffodils and lily-of-the valley sprouting from the ground (these are both poisonous, so wildlife always steer clear of them).  I immediately sprung into action.

Step #1:  Critter Ridder.  This hot-pepper mixture smells and tastes awful, so a quick spritz on the developing buds in my garden was a must.  Note the ONE plant I forgot to sprinkle with the stuff:



As you can see, some of the tender buds became a groundhog snack (BTW I use "groundhog" and "gopher" interchangeably.  As far as I know, these critters--cousins of squirrels--are one and the same!).

Step #2:  Physical barrier.  Gophers (and rabbits) may actually hazard the bad taste to get to particularly delectable sprouts  (like the hosta buds), so I cover select plants in wildlife netting.  The super-fine plastic mesh is tough to bite through, yet from a few feet away you can't even see it, so it doesn't mar the visual presentation of your plantings.

Step #3:  Talcum powder.  Unlike babies, gophers do not like the feel of powdery substances on their feet and bodies (and neither do ants, so sprinkle a bit in "ant lanes" in your house and on your property and they'll vacate the area, too).

Step #4: Molasses.  Groundhogs dislike the feel of powder, but they HATE to be covered in sticky molasses.  Coat their holes in the stuff and watch them hightail it out of the yard really fast!  Let's face it, once you get that substance on you, it's, well, "slow as molasses" to get off!

Thursday, April 23, 2015

Mythbusters: plant edition




Now that planting season is upon us in the Northeast, I thought it timely to explore--and explode--planting myths.  Here, some of the most commonly held beliefs about Spring planting:

1.  If you live in zone 5 or below, never plant anything before Mother's Day

While this is a good rule of thumb for potted items, it isn't true of things like dormant bulbs, roots and rhizomes.  You may tuck hosta shoots, iris, columbine, lily of the valley, ferns (to name a few) under the ground as soon as it is consistently at around 50 degrees F.

2.  You should never plant tulips in the Spring
    
So you have a house full of spent tulips that friends and relatives brought as Easter presents a few weeks back.  Normally you store the withering plants in their pots in your garage until you can dig a nice hole for them in the fall.  Problem is, come autumn, you're busy putting your garden to bed, and more times than not, you forget to plant them--or you simply run out of time before the ground freezes.  So, plant them NOW.  Sure, they won't bloom again until next Spring, but if you tuck them unobtrusively amid your perennials, you will barely notice their browning foliage (which you NEVER cut--it provides the nutrients to get the bulbs through the winter so they bloom gloriously next year).  Tip: get as much dirt from the pot into the hole as possible. The less the tulips are disturbed, the healthier they will stay.  And don't overwater them--too much moisture rots the bulbs.

3.  Drought-tolerant plants seldom need additional watering

While this is true in theory, ALL plants need extra watering during their first season in your garden.  Plants (drought-tolerant and otherwise) need a heaping helping of the wet stuff to help them establish their place in their new home.  The sages tell us that "putting down roots" somewhere is vital for bestowing upon us the feeling of belonging.  This is literally true for our plants.  Things like Black-eyed Susan, Coneflower, and Russian sage, famous for thriving on neglect, also need TLC during their first year in the flowerbed.

4.  To loosen heavy clay soil, add sand

Anyone in the construction industry can tell you what you get when you mix sand with clay: cement.  In fact the worst remedy for a clay soil is to add sand. This resulting rock-hard, mortar-like substance will choke out developing plant roots. a better alternative: use organic matter, like compost, to loosen heavy soils.  It is light in composition, and also improves nutrient quality.

5.  Organic pesticides are much safer than synthetic ones.

This is true to a point.  However, misused pesticides can be harmful, regardless of whether they are considered natural or synthetic. Pyrethrum, for example, made from chrysanthemums, is still toxic to people and pets when handled improperly.  Read and follow all label directions, and remember that these products are tools, not miracle workers or silver bullets. Pesticides cannot correct mistakes made in plant selection, installation, or maintenance.