It's always around this time of year, as we're rounding the bend on St. Patrick's Day, that my holiday poinsettias start looking droopy and sad. It's as if they know the festivities are far behind us, and they're about ready to give up the ghost of Christmas past (doesn't that line sound like a perfect "before and after" puzzle on Wheel of Fortune?).
Fortunately, my friend Marilyn from Wisconsin has shared a way for me to not only help raise the poor poinsettias' spirits, but keep them going all summer and into the fall, looking hale and hearty--in preparation for "show time" in December:
In February or early March--in other words, NOW--cut each of the old flowering stems on the plant back to 4 to 6 inches in height, leaving one to three leaves on each of the old branches. New growth comes from buds located in the leaf axils. Cutting the plant back will cause the buds to grow and develop. Keep the plant in a sunny window at a temperature of 60 to 70 degrees F, and water regularly, letting the soil just begin to dry out before dousing it once more. If bottom leaves wither and drop, the plant is not getting enough water. If they turn yellow, then drop, you are overwatering. Fertilize as needed every 2 weeks.
In late spring, well after the final frost has lifted, and evening temperatures no longer dip lower than 60 degrees F, plant poinsettias right in the ground (but here's a tip: make it easy on yourself--and the plant's tender roots--by planting the entire pot in the ground). Peat moss and vermiculite/perlite potting soils sold at garden centers are satisfactory, and easy to use. If you want to prepare your own growing medium, use 2 parts sterilized garden soil, 1 part peat moss and 1 part sand vermiculite, or perlite plus (which I prefer because I think it's better at attracting and sustaining water), and mix thoroughly. Planting tip: choose a well-drained, slightly shaded spot outdoors. Remember that the plant may need to be watered more frequently than the rest of your garden. And since poinsettias are famous for being finicky, don't place them in windy spots. They prefer to settle in a quiet place. And since they're homebodies, place them near your foundation for protection--as well as a ready-made display case for their red, white or rosy bracts.
By mid-September, bring your poinsettia plant indoors at night to avoid chilling injury (this occurs when temperatures are below 45 degrees F for an extended period). The poinsettia can be placed back outdoors in the daytime when temperatures are warm enough, or keep it in a sunny window. Fertilize every 2 weeks. To reflower your poinsettia, you must keep the plant in complete darkness between 5 p.m. and 8 a.m. daily from the end of September until color shows in the bracts (early to mid-December). The temperature should remain between 60 and 70 degrees F. Night temperatures above 70 to 75 degrees F may delay or prevent flowering. If you follow this procedure the poinsettia will be in full bloom by Christmas.
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