Thursday, March 31, 2016

Tomato time!





On this final day of March I thank Mother Nature for sparing us Northeasterners an early-Spring snowstorm! Now I can turn my thoughts to what's most important this time of year: planting. Intrepid gardener that I am, I already transplanted my hardiest plants--pansies, hyacinths and tulips--and now I must turn my attention to starting seedlings, namely tomatoes. For the earliest tomato crop in your neighborhood, start now.

I'm not suggesting you head outdoors just yet. No matter how many days have reached the unseasonably warm 70-degree mark this week, curb your enthusiasm. Weekend temperatures in upstate New York aren't forecasted to be warm; meteorologists report the mercury will struggle to get past the 40s. Yet plenty can be done inside. Below, the six steps to take now to accelerate your tomato harvest:

1. Choose a fast-maturing variety of tomato. Among the earliest growers: 'Orange Roma,' a sweet,
    fruity tomato, great for making sauce; 'Early Bush' cherry tomato, yields tomatoes 7-10 days before
    other varieties; 'Early Girl' hybrid which bears fruit a mere 50 days after planting.

2.  Select hot spots. Containers and raised beds warm up faster than soil in the rest of the garden. Be
     sure to start containers indoors, and place a cold frame over raised beds.

3.  Harden off plants. Before transplanting tender seedlings outdoors for good, let them sample the
     sunshine and wind for just a few hours a day.

4.  Keep young plants protected. Chilly temps and wind dry out plants. Place empty pots over
     vulnerable plants every evening until temperatures level off, becoming consistently in at least the
     60s.

5.  Hold off on the mulch. I know it looks neater, and cuts down on weeds, but thick mulch inhibits
     the soil from properly warming up, so wait a month before spreading a two-inch layer of straw
     around plants.

6.  Be supportive. I don't mean offering them words of encouragement to grow big and strong, though
     I suppose that can't hurt! It's vital to keep tomato plants growing upright and sturdy. Try cages,
     which support plants on all sides so there's no need to prune or tie stems. If space is an issue, try
     ladders, which offer strong support while encouraging the growth habit upward!

Thursday, March 24, 2016

Appealing to the masses




It's not just the Northeast that experienced warmer-than-normal temperatures during the first quarter of 2016. Seems most of the United States was treated to mild climes this past winter, compliments of El Nino. I think of this weather pattern as Mother Nature's mischievous child, who, like his cohort, La Nina, likes to play tricks on us. Okay by me. I've enjoyed watching my crocus and daffodils pop from the soil weeks earlier than usual; it was delightful to see them peek out in February.

On a trip to Austin, Texas, last week I noticed the famous Texas Bluebonnets gracing every field, yard--even abandoned lots--with their heavenly blue hue. It was an opportune time to visit central Texas since the state's most popular wildflower will be just about gone at this time next month. My daughter was so enchanted by them that she sat herself down on the ground just to be in their midst (photo, above). It got me to thinking about planting in my own yard.

The massive appeal of looking over a field of blue sparked a desire in me to grab a shovel and a few dozen bags of bulbs, but for once I wasn't thinking about what to plant. I was thinking about how many bulbs I wanted to deposit into my garden. I realized at that moment that I'm often spouting the benefits or drawbacks of particular plants, but I seldom focus on the numbers. Yet the fact is this: more often than not, mass plantings have more impact on the eyes than single plantings.

There are exceptions. My neighbor has a beautiful specimen plant--a tree peony that I drool over every Spring. Designed around a garden of coniferous greens, it stands out magnificently. Yet I think a mass planting of tree peonies in the area would also wow every one of my senses.

There are drawbacks to mass planting. It can be expensive, especially if you want instant gratification, and have to buy full-fledged perennials in large quantities. And then there's the work involved. Planting dozens of flowers is a labor of love. It's also an exercise in faith when you don't know how it's going to turn out. Don't let the uncertainty discourage you...the unanticipated can surpass even the greatest of expectations. And if you don't like the effect, you can always dig them back up!


Friday, March 11, 2016

Prune those plants!





One of the best things about a mild winter is that you can get your spring cleanup underway early. As we head into the middle of March in upstate New York, local forecasters aren't seeing any harsh weather on the horizon. Of course, Mother Nature can be a trickster; she may toss a dodge ball our way in the form of a wicked April snowstorm, but fleeting weather events in early spring rarely damage the landscape permanently. With that in mind, I'll be reaching for the pruning sheers within the next week.

It's best to prune the plants in your yard every year. Trees, shrubs, and perennials have an awful lot of stems, and it's hard to keep them properly shaped and healthy if you don't establish a yearly routine. I think of pruning as an "outdoor housekeeping" activity--comparable to annual interior maintenance routines like painting ceilings and trim. It's vital to remove diseased, dead and damaged stems, which attract insects and invite disease.

As I usually do this time of year, I'm posting the pruning basics so gardeners can avoid the errors that cost plants their lives--and plant owners their hard-earned cash. Below, 4 vital pruning rules:

1. What to prune now: Deciduous shade trees like ash, oak and linden, which are dormant in winter. When pruning, be careful to cut old branches flush against tree trunks--no stumps allowed

2. What to prune soon: All plants that bloom on new growth in summer (examples: crape myrtle, potentilla, butterfly bush). You can cut these plants all the way back in late winter or early spring and they will still flourish and bloom in profusion

3. What to prune later: Any plant that forms flowers on "old" wood, which means that buds are formed on existing stems. Lilac, forsythia, climbing roses and rhododendron fall into this category. These plants must be cut back immediately after bloom in order to give the buds a chance to set for next year. When pruning, cut back the oldest existing canes and stems all the way to the ground. This encourages young stems to grow vigorously, which is healthiest for the plants

4. What can be pruned nearly anytime: Shrubs without visible blooms, grown mainly for foliage, may be cut back anytime. Some prime examples include burning bush, boxwood and barberry. The only time you don't want to take the shears to them is late autumn, which exposes vulnerable plants to harsh winter temperatures before they've had enough time to harden off (not allowing them to recover from their cutting wounds before the dramatic climate switch).

Begin the pruning process now and your garden promises to be a cut above last year. If you're like me, you like to see your landscape improve every year!


Friday, March 4, 2016

Room for 'srooms




Esteemed for both culinary and health-supporting properties, mushrooms also look really cool in the gardenThree of the most beneficial mushrooms hail from Japan, but can be easily grown in your garden. Below, note the health benefits of each type of mushroom, and their horticultural
needs:

Shiitake

This mighty mushroom contains polysaccharides, which appear to be powerful anti-viral and anti-tumor agents. Shiitake also enhances immunity by boosting the production of T cells, and even helps to fight flu, due to the presence of a polysaccharide known as KS-2. New clinical studies suggest that Shiitake even protects against the damaging effects of radiation and chemotherapy.

Ingesting shiitake benefits the heart by lowering cholesterol. Studies conducted at the National Institute of Nutrition demonstrated that consumption of shiitake leads to a drop in serum cholesterol of between 7 and 12 percent. Studies show that shiitake inhibits platelet gathering in the blood, reducing the buildup of arterial plaque - which causes hardened arteries.  This mushroom also lowers high blood pressure.

Reishi
A staple of  traditional Chinese medicine, reishi is thought to enhance longevity by fighting tumors, presumably due to the presence of the polysaccharide Beta 1.3, which also occurs in shiitake. Reishi also increases immune-protective T cells and macrophages. The mushroom demonstrates anti-bacterial and anti-viral activity, and accelerates recovery time from infectious Hepatitis.
Reishi protects the liver from damage  by chemical toxins such as carbon tetrachloride. The presence of a histamine-inhibiting compound in reishi, makes this  mushroom helpful in the treatment of chronic bronchitis. Reishi is also inhibits platelet aggregation - a contributor to arterial plaque --providing significant heart- protective benefits.

Maitake

Not as well-known as the shiitake and reishi, maitake may be valuable in the fight against HIV. At an International Conference on AIDS in Amsterdam, maitake was reported to inhibit the HIV virus in vitro. While the mushroom doesn’t kill the HIV virus in humans, it may help as part of a total integrated health regimen. Some Japanese research even suggests that maitake may provide the strongest immune-enhancing properties of any mushroom.
Like both reishi and shiitake, maitake contains a wide array of valuable amino acids, enzymes, polysaccharides, vitamins, minerals and other medicinal compounds. Research shows that the compounds in maitake mushrooms may fight breast and skin cancer cells. These compounds appear to bolster the immune system by stimulating the production of macrophages, killer T-cells, T lymphocytes, and natural killer cells. Maitake mushrooms also reduce high blood pressure, and help to stabilize blood sugar levels, vital for diabetics.

Since mushrooms can be expensive and hard to find, the idea of growing your own is starting to catch on in North America. It's supposed to be relatively easy, so I'm going to give it a try. I discovered a detailed guide for having fun with fungi on "Sustainablog":

There are but a few things you need, including a supply of freshly cut wood, mushroom spawn, and a shady, damp place to store your inoculated mushroom logs.
Mushroom inoculation commonly occurs in the early spring. You will need to find a source of hardwood (such as oak, which is commonly preferred). If you have access to woodland, you can cut your own trees for logs. However you obtain your logs, they should be 40″ long, and approximately 4-6″ in diameter.
Mushroom spawn can be purchased from a variety of suppliers (such as Fungi Perfecti or MushroomPeople) and usually come in the form of dowels or sawdust. Either medium will grant you the same results, but using the sawdust spawn does require the use of a special inoculation tool, which you can also buy from the same suppliers.
After letting the logs rest for three weeks to let the natural fungicides die back, you are ready to inoculate. Drill holes every 6-8″ around the full circumference of the log (and 2″ from either end), and then plug the holes with either your dowels or sawdust spawn. In an old pot, melt some beeswax, and then paint the wax over the holes to protect the spawn. (The beeswax protects the spawn from contaminants as the mycelium runs through the log.)
Finally, stack your logs against a fence, in the fashion of a tipi, or lay them on the ground on a bed of straw. You will want the logs to be in a shady, damp place so that the logs maintain a high moisture level. If the rain is infrequent, you can induce shiitake fruitings by submerging the logs in a body of water or watering them heavily. Either way, expect to see mushrooms in about 6-12 months after the inoculation. Shiitake mushrooms usually appear after a day of rain in the spring, summer, and fall months.
Your shiitake logs will continue to produce fruit for up to eight years, providing you with many harvests of beautiful, delicious, and healthy fungi! Give it a try!