Garden design 101

When I was a fledgling horticultural student with little more to recommend me than a love of gardening, the NYBG professors taught me how to transplant, if you will, my enthusiasm into a practical understanding of how nature works.  They highlighted the botanical needs of plants, including what I like to call the dirty half-dozen: 6 rules of thumb essential to all aspiring green thumbs.  I keep these "rules" in mind every time I begin a new project, like the one I'm starting here (right).  Before I begin selecting which plants to put in an area, I consider the following:

1. Botanical name
2. Common name
3. Size
4. Quantity
5. Spacing
6. Conditions

Other factors come into play as well, but following these horticultural fundamentals takes me from the planning phase to implementation, making it easy to make adjustments as the garden takes shape.

Botanical name:  Why is this important?  I mean, other than impressing others with your (limited) knowledge of Latin, what possible purpose is there in knowing that a butterfly weed is known as Asclepias tuberosa?  Why not just waltz into your local nursery and ask for a butterfly weed?  Because without the proper Latin name, you just may be given a butterfly bush--Buddleia davidii.  No big deal, right?  They are both lovely plants.  Of course, if you were looking to fill a small space with just the right orange-flowered gem, you'd be mighty disappointed by the four-foot-tall, purple-flowered bush that splays across all your other perennials, blocking out their sunlight.

As if that weren't bad enough, say you are an ardent fan of the Monarch butterfly, and you intend to plant butterfly weed all along your yard to attract the lovely flutterers.  Since the Monarch's young feed exclusively on this milkweed, you are doing great environmental good by planting this vital native in your yard.  But, ooops, you've just planted butterfly bush instead.  It will draw the desired Monarchs, but not the young, who so desperately need butterfly weed in order to survive.

Common Name:  Let's face it, your friends and neighbors aren't going to know what the heck you're talking about if you tout the merits of the Calamagrostis X acutiflora you planted on the perimeter of your property.  But they may just point out how much they like your feather reed grass.  Knowing only the Latin names for plants will impede your ability to share your gardening passion with others--not to mention make you sound like a bit of a horticultural snob.

Size:  The mature height and width of a plant is vital knowledge when designing a garden.  Always read garden tags closely, determining how large each intended plant will eventually get.  The knowledge can save you a lot of work (transplanting overgrown plants five years down the road), and money (buying too many plants).  All patient gardeners remember that they plant for the future, not the present.  A flowerbed of perennials that looks sparse today will fill in beautifully in just a few short seasons.

Quantity:  As I just mentioned, this ties in with plant size.  Obviously, the larger a plant gets, the fewer you will potentially need.  Lay down too many saplings and you'll be transplanting them or cutting them down in a few years time to reduce overcrowding. 

Spacing:  There are exceptions to the size/quantity rule.  One such exception is pictured in my photo, above.  I intentionally planted the Arborvitae thuja "Green Giant" (which can grow as high as 30 feet!) and Hydrangea arborescens  (which climbs to five-foot heights) closer than recommended because I intend to shape the rapidly growing cultivars into hedges.

Conditions:  This is an area that I feel is often overlooked.  People buy plants that are totally unsuitable to an area because they fall in love with the flowers, the foliage and/or growing habit.  Many's the time I've seen people planting climbing roses on a shady trellis, only to lament the demise of the foliage, and the fact that the darn thing won't produce blooms.  Know how much sunlight and what type of light your plants need.  I have a hydrangea tree that gets a good three hours of sunlight each day, but it's morning light, which tends to be weaker than the full-on rays of the afternoon, (which would scorch it).  Learn how deeply plants should be in the ground.  I will have to "lift" my peony this autumn because as I have planted things around it over the years, it has become entrenched, and no longer produces many blooms.  Understand the content of the soil.  Some plants like more alkaline surroundings (pH value of more than 7), while others crave acidic conditions (pH below 7), and study moisture preference.  I have a hardy hibiscus (Hibiscus moscheutos) that enjoys full sunlight but likes "wet feet."  Because it's hard to find a spot like that, I discovered an "overflow" area (where rainwater drains from a pipe) in full sun, and stuck the plant there.  It couldn't be happier with the choice!

Killing plants with kindness

Plants are hardier than most of us think.  The shrubs, trees, perennials, grasses, and even annuals of today have evolved to this point by Darwinian means, and their often tender appearance can be deceiving.  Take, for instance, the humble sedum.  The "Autumn Joy," pictured above, is thriving, producing plenty of flower buds in the height of the summer heat.  The sedum's thick leaves are waxy and succulent, storing an abundance of water to be judiciously doled out to stems and roots during even the driest spells.  So if they do well without water, why not hedge our horticultural bets, and shoot a spritz from the garden hose their way every day? 

Bad idea.  Overwatering a plant that is already adept at storing it results in this (pictured below):

Yellowed leaves that drop off when a stiff breeze hits the plant.  What's worse, gardeners think that perhaps the extreme summer temps are to blame because leaves are yellowing: a sign that the plant lacks water.  True.  But yellowing and browning leaves can also be due to too much water, so err on the side of neglect and keep the hose nozzle pointed away from your sedum for a week or two.

Another problem I've noticed this summer in particular is the black spotting of Rudbeckia foliage. 
Spotted leaves on the Rudbeckia, (AKA black eyed Susan) pop up where fungal spores have overwintered and conditions are right for reinfection in the spring. Tight spacing, overhead watering and high humidity contribute to the spread of leaf spot diseases, and the very nature of these plants makes breaking the disease cycle difficult.  Fortunately, the disease doesn't interfere with blooming.  Thinning out plants should ultimately correct the problem.

To maintain proper spacing for good air circulation, actively pull volunteer seedlings that spring from the many seeds Rudbeckia produce in the fall.  Transplant them to other areas of your yard.  In the meantime, removing spent foliage will help in small plantings, since it removes spore sources, but this can be impractical due to the nature of these spreading prairie plants.

Since the spots are mainly cosmetic, this may be a wasted effort if you don’t mind spotty foliage. Many gardeners simply arrange their black eyed Susans in group plantings so the leaves are less obvious as the summer progresses.

The freshest summer veggies

Doesn't this sign say it all?  Let's face it, most of us in the Northeast want to be enjoying nature--and its bounty--right now. Our growing season is short, folks! Those in the know, know how to get the most out of our fleeting season.  Like my upstate neighbors, who not only proudly display the kitschy sign, above, but boast a garden shed full of the best that summer sunshine and showers can offer: just-picked lettuce, green beans and peppers.  It's right about this time that the cucumber and tomato plants are gearing up as well, making mid-to-late-July the start of nonstop mouth-watering season.  Look for "Early Bush" cherry tomatoes (like the ones pictured above) to mix with cukes just now ripening on the vine.  What tastes more like summer than that?

Check out this impressive array of yellow and green beans (pictured, right).  The raised beds not only make tending easier on the back, but discourage little critters from snacking on your garden goodies.  Of course the height is perfect for browsing deer seeking an all-you-can-eat salad bar, but the post-and-rail fence makes access a bit tougher (as well as spraying the perimeter of the garden with Liquid Fence).

When it comes to food-producing gardens, I admit to being fruit-and veggie-challenged.  My talents lie more in the flower-garden-designing arena.  I've been known to toss an occasional herb pot in the mix because the flowers and foliage add depth and drama to flowerbeds.  But, just like my beloved plants, I must also "grow or die," so I'm now the proud owner of six cucumber and eight pumpkin plants. 

As you can see in the photos below, they've just begun producing fruit (cucumber below, and pumpkin, bottom ).  Quite frankly, I'm delighted.  Why didn't I clear a sunny spot in my yard sooner?

 

Midsummer day's dream

We're heading into the height of the summer season, yet when you look around your outdoor spaces there's not much in bloom!  All the spring bulbs have sprung and fizzled.  The early-summer dazzlers  are withering, and the late-summer offerings are just beginning to bud.  What to do?

Of course, this is a great time to stock up on annuals--spreading their bright, cheery efflorescence around your yard--but not everyone has the time and money to tide over garden spaces this way.  It's more cost-efficient, and less time-consuming, to plant perennials that prefer flowering in the middle of summer.  Here, the most reliable mid-season bloomers:

Rudbeckia fulgida 'Early Bird Gold':  Unlike the original black-eyed Susan, which is just beginning to bud now, this early-blooming cultivar begins flowering around July 4th, and doesn't stop until nearly Halloween!  Pair it with 'Endless Summer' Hydrangea macrophylla--which begins blooming earlier than the traditional version because it's been bred to grow on new and old wood--and you've got consistent color from early July until late autumn (both pictured, above).

Coreopsis verticillata begins pushing out sunny yellow petals in late June, and will flower through August, and even into September.  Not only does this cultivar differ from the widely known Coreopsis lanceolata in foliage variety (it has feathery, string-like greenery as compared with the lanceolata's thick, rounded leaves, which makes for interesting textures in the flowerbed), but it buds later...and therefore, flowers last until deeper into the summer season, as seen in the background, below.


If you love the bright shot of color provided by daylilies, but lament the fact that they're nearing the end of their bloom cycle, you can opt for Asiatic lilies, which have flowers similar in shape and color.  They're just reaching their potential now (check out the magenta lily on the left-hand side of the shot, right).  Besides being available in a variety of hues, they boast playful whirls of greenery along their stems for foliage variety.

The gentle white blooms of the Physostegia virginiana, AKA Obedient plant (foreground), provides a neutral value in the center of the garden, and is just beginning to bloom now.  It makes a great mid-summer anchor, and is a must-have (along with Rudbeckia) for those who prefer only native plants in their outdoor spaces.

Don't forget about flowering groundcovers and trees.  The fuschia blooms on the creeping sedum in the front of this photo offer unending interest to garden visitors.  This versatile plant sports intricate foliage that's shaped like finely crafted florets, which only become more interesting when topped by the delightful pink blooms.  And while it can be challenging to find flowering trees in the middle of the summer, I've found that the Cornus kousa, a small deciduous tree (usually 8-12 feet tall) in the dogwood family, can "flower" for up to six weeks.  The flowers consist of four petals which are actually bracts (like poinsettias), and last from mid spring through the first few weeks of July.  Mine is done blooming (as you can see from the last ravaged blossom, below), but it's far from finished providing interesting color and texture to my yard.  After the bracts drop, the flower centers--small cherry-shaped berries--take center stage, turning from green to the color and appearance of a raspberry (bottom photo).  The edible berries not only keep the summer color going, but attract birds of all varieties.  What could be more colorful than that?

Horticultural housekeeping: when to deadhead flowering plants

Now may seem like a really strange time to talk about tidying up the garden.  Aren't all the flowers in full bloom? Yes, most of them are, but some have already finished their blossoming for the season.  The remnants of these plants must be addressed.

If you want show-stopping color next spring, now's the time to take the spent heads off lilac, Japanese Andromeda (Pieris japonica), and rhododendron.  If you don't, the plant will put most of it's energy into seed production rather than pushing out blooms for next season.

For rhododendron, it can be tricky.  It's far too easy to clip off not only the spent flowers, but next year's leaves.   Pictured below (focus on the section just below my thumbnail) is the nodule that attaches the bloom to the rest of the plant.  If you look closely, you will see new leaf growth at its base.  Being careful not to disturb the new growth, bend the spent section until it snaps off.  The spent blooms actually come off quite easily, but you must go slowly, or you will inadvertently pull new growth off as well.  As for the spent flowers that have dropped, don't allow them to litter the area around the rhododendron because the blossoms may precipitate fungal infections in the soil which can spread to the shrub.

Pieris japonica (AKA Japanese Andromeda or lily-of-the-valley bush, due to the similarity of the bell-like blooms) is a staple in northeast areas for early spring bloom, and to keep deer and other critters out of the garden.  The leaves of this plant are poisonous, so wildlife steers clear.  In fact, birds don't even nest in it!  In my yard, they prefer the rhododendron right next to it!

Like the rhodies, the pieris has plenty of new growth surrounding the spent flowers, so utmost care is vital to protect the plant and ensure plenty of budding next spring.  I never take pruning sheers to this plant.  I prefer to do as I do with the rhodie--pull off spent buds by hand.  Granted, it's tedious.  The buds are smaller and harder to isolate and yank off.  This is a time when I must remember every good gardener's mantra: patience is what makes a beautiful garden.  I don't try to take all the buds at once.  Every day for a few weeks I'll pluck a dozen or so dried-up flowers, as well as errant dead branches.

To the right is my very large pieris, with a bundle of dried flowers right in the center of the shot.  I'll  pull that section off right where it attaches to the branch.  It takes me about 10 minutes a day for a few weeks to tidy this plant (mine--which I inherited when I purchased my house--has been growing in that spot for more than 20 years, and it's quite large).  When your pieris is in full bloom next spring, you'll be happy that you took the time to ensure such beautiful bounty!

By now you should have deadheaded all spent lilac blooms (at least a month ago).  If not, leave them alone!  Lilacs, need to be removed immediately after blooming, or you risk trimming off next year's blooms.  I learned this the hard way when I clipped back my lilac bushes one warm July morning, many years ago.  The following spring the bushes were shapely--and very green.  I'd clipped off every last bud!

As for flowers, there are a few hard-and-fast rules.  For example, if you deadhead roses and mums, you'll promote new growth (you're essentially tricking the plant into putting forth new flowers when you take existing ones), but deadheading won't garner you any more blooms on your flowering bulbs.
If you're unsure whether certain plants will re-bloom if you deadhead them, why not try it?  At the very least, you'll remove old growth, improving the appearance of the plant. 

If you're looking to increase the number of plants in an area, don't deadhead.  After my poppies finished their blooming last year, I was tempted to cut off the long, gangly stems, but instead I tucked them under the foliage of a Montauk daisy because I wanted the seed heads at the top of the stems to dry out and burst forth with fresh seeds.  It was a good idea.  This year I had twice as many poppies in the flower bed.